The hospitality in Antas rejuvenated me, and I had a day on a quiet road along the cliffs over the Mediterranean that lifted my spirits even further. I camped on a cliff with a nearby island full of raucous seagulls to keep me company, and the next day passed through a nice little city called Aguilas, which was preparing its Carnival festivities. I camped again in a solitary spot near Garrobillo. The next day had me feeling sorry for myself at times, as I couldn't find the road that was going to be my shortcut after getting through Sierra del Contar, and my knees hurt. But just as I was ready to throw a tantrum, like a madman in the desert, I came across the little beach village of Calnegre. I asked for water in a cafe, and the brothers that ran the place gave me not only water but salami sandwiches as well. It wasn't long before I was cursing again, however, as I couldn't find that other shortcut to Bolnuevo either, and when I did find it, after making some of my own shortcuts through greenhouse farms, it was a winding, rocky, up and down dirt road that, while beautiful so near the sea, was also arduous. When I reached Bolnuevo I continued walking in the dark through wealthy neighborhoods to Puerto de Mazarron, where I was hoping for my next couchsurfing host. Instead, the city hosted me with a parkbench and a 4 a.m. shower with its sprinkler system. In the early morning hours I had a revelation: that when I have reached Egypt, I will go home and devote my life to helping the homeless. There is a reason for our difficult times in life, I am convinced.
The next day I was happy again, walking along the coast, then through Sierra de la Muela to within ten kilometers or so of Cartagena, where I camped again, overlooking the city and the vast, populated plain to its north. Yesterday I arrived in the ancient town, and last night stayed with two very kind people, Maite and Ignacio.
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